Montgarri: What to see, what to do and where to eat

Val d’Aran offers many incredible activities during the winter, and today we are focusing on Montgarri, a mysterious abandoned village near Baqueira Beret.

In this article, we will explore this fascinating and cold place, including its famous sanctuary, its abandoned village, and the activities you can enjoy there.

Montgarri Valle de Aran

Montgarri, a picturesque abandoned village, is located in what was the village rectory, 7 kilometers from “Plá de Beret”, right next to the “Madre de Dieu de Montgarri” church from the 16th century, built on an ancient 12th-century hermitage.

Montgarri is known as the coldest village in Spain, with an average annual temperature of only 5 degrees!

Location of Montgarri and how to get there

Montgarri is located near the Baqueira-Beret ski resort, in the Pyrenees, in the northwestern part of Catalonia, near the border with France.

From Barcelona, it takes approximately 4 hours by car to get to Val d’Aran, while if you are coming from Lleida, it takes about 2 hours. The main access road is through El Port de la Bonaigua (C-28 to Baqueira and then C-142B), which is open year-round.

How to get to the Montgarri Trail

To find the start of the Montgarri trail, follow the C-142B until you reach the free parking at the Ta Bagergue road. From there, you are ready to begin the trail.

Getting to Montgarri

Santuario de Montgarri (Montgarri Sanctuary)

The Beret mountain plateau, at an altitude of 1850 meters, once witnessed how the Beret Plains were the ideal setting for sorcerers and witches practicing dark arts. From the summer pastures filled with cattle grazing in the sun to the snow-covered mountains and skiers in winter, this place is a witness to significant contrasts.

This site enjoys an exceptional location, serving as the natural boundary between the Atlantic slope to the north and the Mediterranean slope to the south. The route descends along the bank of the Noguera Pallaresa River, passing through forests of black pine and meadows, until it reaches the refuge and the Montgarri Sanctuary, located next to the river in a sunny, open landscape. The return is along the forest path on the shady side of the river, in the spruce forest of the Dossau mountain.

It is said that one day a shepherd noticed how one of his cattle knelt down in the same spot every day. Curious, he decided to investigate. To his surprise, he discovered the image of the Virgin of Montgarri, which was later named the patron saint of shepherds, and a hermitage was built in her honor.

Over time, the sanctuary was built in the 12th century, considered the most important in the region. It was located at a strategic point, linking Catalonia and France. Additionally, there was a mountain hospital, the rectory, and a lodging building for passers-by and those in need.

Abandoned village of Montgarri

Once we are ready to continue, we will cross the bridge in front of the mountain refuge. We will turn left and follow the trail until we reach the abandoned village of Montgarri. There we will see the ruins of the mountain houses (bordes). The villagers were forced to leave their homes due to harsh living conditions. Frequent snowstorms and the village’s isolation made life difficult.

After visiting the village ruins, we return by the same path to the bridge. From there, we can enjoy the stunning views one last time before heading back to the car. It’s common to find dog sleds and snowmobiles in this part of the trail.

What to see in Montgarri

Snowshoeing to Montgarri in winter

Snowshoeing to Montgarri is one of the easiest winter adventures you can do in the northwestern region of Catalonia. With approximately 5 km both ways, it’s a relatively short trail that even beginners can enjoy.

Cross-country skiers also use the trail’s start, which is the most trafficked section. Once you move away from the ski resort, the number of people drastically decreases. After 4 km surrounded by a white landscape, you will reach Era Creu (a viewpoint with a cross), a good place to take a break.

Continuing along the trail, you will lose some altitude, passing by a couple of shelters until you reach the Sanctuary. During this stretch, the views reminded us of a Christmas postcard: a completely white landscape with only the sanctuary and the river flowing beside it.

Montgarri with snow

Required Gear

Snowshoeing is a relatively easy and fun activity to enjoy during the winter months. Below, you will find tips on what to bring and pack for your Montgarri snowshoeing adventure:

  • Snowshoes: Bring your own or rent them.
  • Waterproof winter hiking boots
  • Warm clothing
  • Gloves
  • Backpack: For snacks, water bottle, etc.
  • Neck gaiter and/or hat: Don’t skimp on these… you may regret it if the weather changes quickly!
  • Sunglasses

Where to eat in Montgarri

Although dining options in Montgarri are limited, here are a couple of recommendations:

  • Restaurant Refugi Montgarri: Located inside the mountain refuge, on Montgarri street. For more information, call 639 494546.
  • Restaurant Casa Val de Montgarri: Located on Dehòres street, without a number. For details, call 689 808485.

Where to eat in Montgarri

We hope this article inspires you to put on your snowshoes and explore Montgarri, its sanctuary, and the snow-covered surroundings. We guarantee that you won’t be disappointed!

And to continue discovering the most charming villages, we invite you to read our article on Garós, where we tell you what to do and see in this wonderful village. Come and discover it!

Stay close to Montgarri

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Author: Totiarán

At Totiaran, we know the Aran Valley like the back of our hand. We have been managing vacation rentals for years with a professional, close, and fully adapted approach to this unique destination. We select each accommodation, take care of every detail, and support both owners and travelers to guarantee quality, authentic, and worry-free stays. Our local experience is the foundation that allows us to offer trust, results, and a way to experience the Aran Valley as it deserves.